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«Там ліс і степ, мов з диво-казки , з зорею хвиль тендітна ласка ледь-ледь торкається піска…»

Кінбурнська коса вражає кожного, хто потрапляє на неї. Виникає дивне відчуття, ніби час тут призупиняє свій невгамовний біг. На повні груди вдихаєш цілюще повітря і сповнюєшся таким зарядом позитиву та енергії, що тим міським фітнес-клубам, мабуть, і не снилося. Завдяки певній відособленості від «благ цивілізації» тут вдалося зберегти унікально поєднане різноманіття ландшафтних та біологічних комплексів з рідкісними видами рослин і тварин.

Нам пощастило потрапити на косу 24 травня у супроводі працівників національного природного парку «Білобережжя Святослава». Цього дня, в Європейський день природних парків, (втім, як і кожного, вже традиційного для них «чистого четверга»), вони влаштували тут «велике прибирання», заходившись збирати у великі пластикові мішки для сміття вибиті хвилями «дари моря та цивілізації».

Заступник директора парку В.Б. Чаус зголосився бути нашим гідом. Василь Богданович розповів, що до меж парку (це сьогодні понад 35 тис. га землі та водних угідь) увійшла територія колишнього РЛП «Кінбурнська коса», за винятком розташованих на півострові сіл та території рибколгоспу «Свідомість» тощо. До них було додано акваторію Ягорлицької затоки, та збільшено площу включеної акваторії Дніпро-Бузького лиману. Досить великий штат служби держохорони дозволятиме пильно вартувати довірені їй державою національні природні багатства. До речі, переважна більшість охоронців – мешканці Покровської сільської ради.

Знайомство з Кінбурнською косою ми розпочали з самого її «окрайку», де гід звернув нашу увагу на різностильні нашвидкоруч збиті вагончики для відпочинку, що не відповідають ані санітарним, ні естетичним, чи іншим вимогам до таких об’єктів. Те, що розташування рекреаційних зон щороку оформлюється по-різному, не дозволяє встановити їх єдині  межі раз і назавжди та унеможливлює облаштування постійних рекреаційних споруд у єдиному архітектурному стилі, що органічно «вписувалися» б у оточуючу природну красу. Це є ще однією проблемою, до вирішення якої найближчим часом планується докласти зусиль.

До зазвичай пропонованого туристам екскурсійного маршруту (яким пересувалися і ми) входять місце Кінбурнської битви 1787 року, «привіт» 300-літньої давнини — так званий «Турецький міст», а також хрест, встановлений на місці колишньої Кінбурнської фортеці. На жаль, після штурму під час Кримської війни у 1955 році фортеця була зруйнована, зникла й чавунна плита з могили легендарного кошового отамана Сидора Білого. Нинішній хрест – стилізована під старовину данина шани козакам.

Василь Богданович  нагадав, що Кінбурн з давніх часів був важливим стратегічним об’єктом, контролюючим морський прохід, «ласим шматком», за володіння яким схрещували зброю чимало держав та народів, від часів Еллади й до подій Великої Вітчизняної. Він також коротко розповів про роль О.В. Суворова у російсько-турецькій війні 1787-91 р.р. та історію кількох спроб увічнення його блискучої перемоги у Кінбурнській битві, що закінчувалися зникненням погруддя героя (над яким ніби тяжіла лиха доля) — інколи через певні історичні обставини, а інколи й через вандалізм невдячних нащадків. І коли у 90-х пам’ятник Суворову в черговий раз зник з коси, у 2007-му, до 220-ї річниці оборони Кінбурну, завдяки спільним зусиллям козацтва та тодішнього директора ДП «Очаківське лісомисливське господарство», нині керівника ОУЛМГ П.М. Паламарюка вдалося встановити пам’ятний знак. У планах – відновити початковий вигляд пам’ятника полководцю, встановленого на Кінбурні у 1823 році за проектом Делмута-Малиновського завдяки зусиллям онука Олександра Васильовича. Керівництво НПП підтримує цю ідею. Адже наближається 225-а річниця легендарної перемоги, яка є невідємною частиною історичної спадщини Кінбурна. Зусиллями ентузіастів, в т.ч. і працівників нацпарку, вже підготовлений проект з обрахованою вартістю (у цілком розумних межах). Василь Богданович, користуючись нагодою, через газету запросив усіх небайдужих людей до співпраці з його реалізації.

Крім того, на косі досі зберігається й «відлуння» 150-літньої історії — значна кількість останків загиблих воїнів – сардинців, алжирців, росіян, турків. Близько півтора років тому, після шторму в 50 м від берега там, де одійшла вода і оголилося дно, на якому видно було численні людські останки.

На жаль, поряд з історичними пам’ятками на Кінбурні існує і «пам’ятник» людській безгосподарності – майданчики, влаштовані раніше для збору відходів, які мали утилізуватися, тепер перетворилися на велике сміттєзвалище, розташоване поряд з туристичним маршрутом. Побутові відходи на сьогодні – одна з найбільших загроз екологічній безпеці коси. Одним із шляхів вирішення цієї проблеми є переведення відходів, які утворюються в процесі відпочинку, у категрію вторинної сировини. Для цього потрібно навчити відпочивальників сортувати відходи на скляні та поліетиленові. Обидві ці групи відходів приймаються на переробку приватними підприємцями як вторсировина. Перший досвід парком вже отримано, але для подальшого його впровадження необхідно провадити широку роз’яснювальну роботу та вирішити ряд організаційних питань. Потрібно встановити спеціальні контейнери та організувати транспортування від місця утворення до пункту прийому. Тому зараз працівники парку намагаються співпрацювати з перевізниками, запроваджуючи такий принцип: вивозити з заповідної території більше сміття (до того ж, відсортованого й запакованого), ніж залишають його по собі їхні пасажири-відпочивальники. Звісно, менталітет людей змінювати не просто. Але мета така поставлена, і рух до неї буде наполегливим і постійним. До того ж, значну частину подібних турбот «Білобережжя Святослава» взяло на себе. Це й «чисті четверги», про які вже згадувалося (хоч не є виключенням й інші дні тижня), постійне сортування та вивіз відходів.

Проблемою для коси є й облаштування доріг, бо на сьогодні кожний транспортний засіб «нарізає» власну шляхову «сітку», залишаючи по собі, крім колій, знищений трав’яний  покрів, серед рослин якого є й червонокнижні. Зараз це питання спільно з місцевою владою планується вирішити таким чином, щоб остаточно визначитися з маршрутами та, використовуючи місцеві матеріали, забезпечити їх прохідність (особливо взимку). Налаштовується співпраця з місцевою владою й стосовно питання утилізації відходів та з інших питань. Адже з перших днів утворення адміністрація парку йде на співпрацю з місцевою громадою, її депутатами. Виконуючий обов’язки директора НППЮ.І. Козловський інформував про завдання та перспективи нацпарку на сесії Покровської сільради, брав участь у проведенні круглого столу з активом сільради. Ним запропонований план заходів щодо взаємодії НПП та Покровської сільської ради, який наразі вивчається депутатами, а частково вже запроваджений у дію. Одним з прикладів цього є і те, що голову Покровської сільради Г.М. Агафонова введено до складу науково-технічної ради парку, а заступника директора НПП «Білобережжя Святослава» В.Б. Чауса – до складу виконкому сільської ради.

Далі наш маршрут пролягав повз Римби, селище на Покровських хуторах, чия назва теж має історичне походження. Після поразки у Кримській війні Російська імперія мала позбутися не лише свого Чорноморського флоту, а й військових фортець, розташованих на морському узбережжі.  Кінбурнська фортеця була повністю «зрита», а для спокою російських кордонів у Дніпро-Бузькому лимані були збудовані укріплення на штучно насипаному по забитих дубових сваях острові (нині – Майський). Робітники, які перевозили та розвантажували будівельні матеріали на спеціальних судах з жолобами («римбами»), і заснували, за переказами, селище з однойменною назвою (до речі, до самої Вітчизняної війни на місці Кінбурнської фортеці проіснувало й село Кінбурн).

Познайомилися ми і з урочищем Комендантським, де, за легендою, в особливо жорсткому режимі охоронялися вікові дуби, чия міцна сировина особливо цінилася у часи розбудови Російської імперії, а за їх вирубку винні суворо каралися.

Як не парадоксально, та система абсолютних заборон у спілкуванні з природою до добрих наслідків не призводить. Важливо знаходити розумний паритет у цьому питанні задля взаємної користі. Наприклад, через значне зниження кількості худоби на косі, травяний покрив не зїдається тваринами і не викошується. Це веде до заростання степу домінантними рослинами, які витісняють рідкісні види, утворюється щільний сухостой, що збільшує пожежну небезпеку. Тому повне обмеження випасання або сінокосіння є не тільки недоцільним, але і шкідливим для природних комплексів. В той же час, окремі цінні ділянки потребують регулювання впливу на них. Так, відоме «Орхідне поле» протягом одного місяця – травня – охороняється від випасання, зоб дати можливіс ть орхідеям відцвісти та сформувати насіння.  Зараз ситуація всебічно вивчається з наукового погляду, щоб запобігти подальшому порушенню екобалансу. Люди повинні мати можливість спілкуватися з природою, усвідомлюючи її цінність та необхідність зберігати і захищати її, а також користуватися нею, не заподіюючи збитків.

Комендантське урочище межує з Бієнковим озером, що поступово переходить у Бієнкові плавні – традиційне місце нересту багатьох місцевих видів риби, яке вдало сполучається з кількома озерами з добре прогрітою водою.

Далі наш шлях проліг до Ковалівської саги. З ландшафту, що нагадує напівпустелю, та відповідного температурного режиму, ми спустилися до місця, що цілком могло б слугувати декорацією для зйомки якогось фантастичного сюжету. Зачудовані відкритою  перед нами красою, ми у захваті розглядали дивний пейзаж. Розлогі дерева з тісно зімкненими угорі кронами та чудернацьким покрученим корінням  дарували затінок і приємну вологу прохолоду. Біля підніжжя дерев – папороть, подекуди  поодинокі квітки ірису. У центрі розкинулося озерце з поверхнею смарагдового кольору, заросле ряскою, а по краю — осокою. Місцями з нього, немов фонтанчики,  виступали яскраво-зелені рослини, схожі на очерет.

На завершення маршруту нас зустрів теплий пісочок та ласкаві хвилі Ягорлицької затоки, вода у якій, як зауважив Василь Богданович, навіть солоніша,  ніж у Чорному морі. А через кілька хвилин ми й самі мали змогу у цьому пересвідчитися, поринувши у неї, здіймаючи фонтани  бризок та зойкаючи, коли торкалися численних медуз. А після  короткого відпочинку та розмови з місцевим мешканцем, водієм нашого «зеленоокого таксі» (обидва мали ймення Ваня), що розповів про непрості побутові турботи «косян» (адже певна ізольованість від цивілізації більше йде на користь природі, ніж людям), ми попрямували в зворотному напрямку, збагачені чудовими фото, цікавою інформацією та  безліччю вражень, якими і спробували з вами поділитися. ?Втім, краще один раз побачити, ніж сто разів почути або прочитати – НПП «Білобережжя Святослава» проводить для всіх бажаючих екскурсії за трьома різними маршрутами. Дізнатися про час, місце збору і таке інше можна за телефонами у співробітників, які займаються рекреацією (050)270-99-11, ?067)116-08-95).

До побачення, Кінбурне! Щасти тобі, диво-земле з романтичною назвою «Білобережжя Святослава»! Нехай  твоя природна краса  й надалі зберігається завдяки турботливим рукам людей, що піклуються про тебе не лише за службовим обов’язком, а й за покликом душі.

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