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Архів

Край Ахілла і князя Святослава

Прийде час, і наша молода держава стане такою ж бажаною для закордонних гостей, як Греція, Єгипет, Італія, Іспанія, екзотичні куточки світу. Для мене ж таким куточком, із незвичайною природою і давньою історією, є Кінбурнська коса.

Пляж Кінбурна входить у десятку найкращих в Україні. А я б сказав, що він — найкращий. А скільки цікавої роботи на Кінбурнській косі для археологів, ентомологів, інших представників вченого світу!

Національні парки чи заповідники?

Ще в радянські часи ностальгія за незайманою природою вабила нас відвідати такі місця. У величезній колись країні було створено сотні унікальних заповідників. Вони вiдіграли і продовжують вiдiгравати величезну роль у збереженні прекрасного світу фауни і флори вже нині країн незалежних, що виникли на уламках імперії. Доступ до багатьох заповідників був дуже обмежений для звичайних людей, але не для можновладців. Згадаймо про полювання Хрущова та його гостей — Кастро, Хонекера та інших — у заповідниках України і Білорусі. А були ще Середня Азія, Сибір, Прибалтика з їхніми унікальними природними комплексами.

В останні роки у нашому повсякденному вжитку все частіше з’являється термін «національний парк». У 2009 році тодішній Президент України Віктор Ющенко підписав один з останніх своїх указів про створення національних парків. Указ беззаперечно прогресивний: в Україні почали чи починають діяти понад 30 національних парків. Серед них Національний природний парк Білобережжя Святослава. Він займає більшу частину Кінбурнської коси, з якої я і розпочав розповідь.

Свою назву коса отримала від тюркського «кіл» — волосина і «бурун» — мис. Волосоподібний мис — так назвали турки півострів, що простягнувся на 40 кілометрів. Максимальна ширина коси — 10 кілометрів, мінімальна — якихось кілька метрів. Стоячи на шпилі коси, ви одночасно бачите Дніпровський лиман, на протилежному боці якого добре видно Очаків… і безмежне Чорне море — з іншого боку. Саме на цій стороні тягнеться прекрасний пляж, про який я вже згадував.

Сотні років Кінбурнською косою володіла Отоманська Порта. Біля її берегів і на самій косі точилися три криваві російсько–турецькі війни. Ми ще згадаємо про них. А зараз повернімося до новоствореного Національного парку.

— Яка різниця між Національним парком і більш звичним для нас словом «заповідник»? — запитав я у виконувача обов’язків директора парку Юрія Козловського.

— Національні парки — загальносвітова тенденція. Така вона у країнах Європи, США, Канади, африканських державах. Різниця між національним парком і заповідником — у способі ведення таких утворень. Національний парк передбачає не абсолютну заповідність, а участь людини в охороні природи, користування її ресурсами, звичайно, з додержанням природоохоронних норм. Ідея національних парків — регульоване використання природних ресурсів. Важлива функція Національного природного парку Білобережжя Святослава — рекреаційна. Рекреація — це відпочинок на природі з метою відновлення сил, здоров’я. Такою рекреаційною зоною нашого Кінбурна є його пляжі. Тут дуже чистий, мілкий кварцовий пісок. Під промінням сонця він білий–білий. Наші пляжі дійсно унікальні.

— Білобережжя Святослава. Тепер я розумію, чому Білобережжя. А чому Святослава?

— Святослав був надзвичайно хоробрим і вмілим князем–воїном. Він не сидів у Києві, як це робили інші київські князі. Він воював iз хозарами, могутня Візантія тремтіла від жаху, побачивши біля своїх берегів лодії Святослава. Спускаючись по Дніпру, виходячи в лиман, потім у Чорне море, воїни князя часто зупинялися на відпочинок на Кінбурнській косі. Так iз часом виникла назва — Білобережжя Святослава. Вона і стала назвою нашого національного парку.

— Повернімося тепер до поняття «заповідник». У чому його суть?

— На відміну від парку, заповідник передбачає повну заборону його відвідування людьми, будь–яку господарську діяльність, рекреаційні заходи. Але національні парки — це веління часу. Знаменитими є Національний парк Серенгеті в Танзанії, Йєллостоунський національний парк у США, інші національні парки зі світовою славою. Сподіваюся, що національний парк на Кінбурнській косі з часом стане відомим далеко за межами України.

Дивовижний світ Кінбурна

Слово «дивовижний» не буде перебільшенням усього, що я побачив у новоствореному національному парку. Він і справді дивовижний і надзвичайно цікавий. Сама Кінбурнська коса — великий піщаний масив, що входить до складу Нижньодніпровської піщаної арени. Він утворився понад 2 000 років тому на місці древньої дельти Борисфена—Дніпра. Тут було дуже багато родючого мулу, і в давні часи Кінбурн був укритий густими лісами та лісостепами. У прадавні часи цю землю, а також Тендрівську косу, що знаходиться неподалік, називали країною лісів, або Гілеєю. Це про неї згадував у своїх історичних хроніках знаменитий Геродот. Взагалі цей регіон і нинішня південна степова Україна були вкриті густими, часом непрохідними, лісами. У це нам, сучасникам, важко повірити. Але…

Читаючи мемуари учасників суворовських походів, зустрінеш цікаві факти. Коли Суворов ішов на турецьку фортецю Очаків, а це якихось два кілометри до Кінбурнської коси, війська заблукали у лісі. Два дні шукали вихід — такі могутні були ліси. Так що знав Геродот, про що писав.

Нині від могутніх прадавніх лісів на Кінбурні збереглися дубово–березові, осикові й вільхові гайки, розкидані серед піщаних масивів, вкритих густою травою, чагарниками.

Робота у керівництва Національного природного парку Білобережжя Святослава Юрія Івановича Козловського та Василя Богдановича Чауса зовсім не кабінетна. Хоч і бюрократично–паперової метушні вдосталь. Я б сказав, що вони працюють в умовах похідно–польових.

Офіційно парк уже створено, сформовано штат. Тут є гідрологи, зоологи, геологи, ентомологи, ботаніки та інші науковці. Адже національний парк і наука — поняття нерозривні. Так у всіх парках світу. Мені вдалося побачити один із важливих етапів формування парку — так зване зонування. Для цього треба проїхати всюдиходом усю Кінбурнську косу і визначити: де територія парку, а де ні. Адже на косі ще з часів козацької доби існують три села — Покровка, Василівка та Покровське. Мешкають в них близько 600 осіб, населення постійне. У літню пору наїжджають сотні, якщо не тисячі відпочиваючих. Є ще два лісництва, частина території Кінбурна входить до Чорноморського біосферного заповідника. Є проблеми, різні інтереси. І керівництво Національного парку Білобережжя Святослава повинно це враховувати.

— При зонуванні,— розповідає Юрій Іванович, — ми визначаємо території заповідні і території господарчі. З одного боку, ми повинні враховувати збереження природи, а з іншого — господарчу людську діяльність, що склалася на Кінбурні протягом століть. Випас худоби, сінокіс.

Той самий Пушкінський дуб

Юрій Іванович зупинив всюдихід біля старезного могутнього дуба. Красенем не можна було не замилуватися. Скільки буремних століть пронеслося над ним…

— Пам’ятаєте слова Пушкіна: «У лукоморья дуб зелёный, златая цепь на дубе том…» Історики, літературознавці вважають, що саме цей дуб надихнув поета на віршовані рядки. Пушкін зупинявся тут під час поїздки до Одеси.

Пушкінський дуб — далеко не єдиний релікт Кінбурна, реліктова вся Кінбурнська коса. Цікавим реліктом стародавніх часів є Ковалівська сага. Це один iз найбільших на Нижньому Дніпрі вільхових гаїв. Площа — близько 12 гектарів. Тут корені повзуть по землі від дерева до дерева. Вмирає одне дерево, а корені вже дали життя новому… Так тисячі років. На озері, схованому у вільховому лісі, панує тиша. Незвичайні для півдня України папороті переносять нас у давні часи, коли Геродот писав: «Як перейти Борисфен, то зразу ж перша від моря лежить Гілея».

Вільховий ліс — своєрідні тропічні джунглі посеред піщаної коси. У його затишній прохолоді ховається від спеки різноманітне птаство, а в озері живуть рідкісних видів болотяні черепахи. Зупиніться тут, торкніться кори старої вільхи, і ви відчуєте подих століть.

Неподалік Ковалівської саги — невеликий березовий гай. Тут росте береза дніпровська — ендемічний вид, занесений до Червоної книги України. Ендеміки — місцевий вид рослин і тварин, які типові для відносно невеликих територій. В інших місцях вони практично не зустрічаються.

Крім Ковалівської саги, ендемічним є Волижин ліс: разом зі степовими ділянками та озером він сягає 203 гектари. Тут у первісному вигляді добре збереглася рідкісна деревна та трав’яниста рослинність.

Фауна Кінбурна налічує близько 5 тисяч видів тварин. З них 45 видів ссавців, 300 — птахів, 9 — плазунів, 8 — земноводних, 74 — риб, близько 4 000 видів комах, 160 — павукоподібних, 63 — молюсків, 55 — ракоподібних. 159 видів занесено до Червоної книги України та міжнародних Червоних списків. І все на території близько 10 000 гектарів. Усього… Де ще побачиш таке буяння і розмаїття життя!

Юрій Іванович показав мені свіжі викиди піску серед густої трави. Тут попрацював сліпак піщаний — землерий, який веде винятково підземний спосіб життя і риє ходи на глибині до 60 сантиметрів. На відміну від крота, він зовсім не має очей і харчується коріннями рослин. Ця тваринка з густою шерстю також занесена до Червоної книги України.

Мабуть, чи не головна біда і Національного природного парку Білобережжя Святослава і лісгоспів, розташованих на Кінбурні, — пожежі. У 2000 і 2001 роках тут вигоріло 1 000 гектарів соснових насаджень. У літню пору небезпека постійна: керівництво парку часто проводить навчання, щоб попередити прояви грізної стихії.

Айболить Кінбурнської коси

Чого тільки не побачиш у цьому незвичайному куточку землі української, кого тільки не зустрінеш… Знайомтесь, Ярослав Васильович Соляр. Головний лісничий Кінбурнського лісництва. Професія поважна і цікава. Тваринний світ Кінбурна він, мабуть, знає як ніхто з місцевих. Тут водяться вовки і дикі кабани, лисиці і єнотовидні собаки, косулі, полози сарматський і жовточеревий, занесені до Червоної книги України. Мешкає на території коси і єдиний вид отруйних змій — гадюка степова, яка також занесена до Червоної книги України і міжнародних Червоних списків. До речі, на міжнародних ринках отрута степової гадюки ціниться значно вище, ніж кобри чи гюрзи.

Цікаво розповідав лісничий про комплекс озер Бієнкових плавнів. Сюди через невелику протоку пливуть на нерест із Дніпровського лиману коропові риби. Багаті на їжу мілководдя приваблюють безліч птахів. Серед них — величні рожеві пелікани. Тут живе і найбільша на півдні України колонія чапель. На Кінбурнській косі під час міграцій можна побачити орла–беркута, орла–змієїда, орла–карлика, соколів, лунів. Та хіба розкажеш про всю живність древнього Кінбурна!

Ще Ярослав Соляр місцевий… айболить. Він організував на території лісництва невеличкий зоопарк. Сюди приносять загублених дитинчат птахів і всякої звірини. Трапляються й поранені. Найпопулярніший експонат — справжнісінький вовк. І назвали його Вовчиком. Підібрали Вовчика зовсім крихітним, вигодували молоком із соски. І став він таким лагідним — куди там найлюб’язнішому собаці. Вовчик радо вилизав долоню свого рятівника. Я через металеву сітку почухав Вовчику–братику спину, що він сприйняв дуже радо.

Є ще у незвичайному зоопарку дикі качки, павичі з діточками, фазани, муфлон, лисиця, єнотовидний собака, верблюд (і як він сюди потрапив?). У густих плавнях рохкав дикий кабан Тимко. Як не кликали — не прибіг. А так біжить зразу, якщо маєте смачненьке.

Країна озер

Кінбурнська коса багата справжніми соляними озерами. З давніх часів тут були соляні промисли: легендарні чумаки їздили по сіль не лише у далекий Крим, а й завертали до Кінбурна. З ХVІІ століття Кінбурнську косу вже контролювали запорозькi козаки, які витіснили звідси татар. Нащадки запорожців, які мешкають нині в селах Покровка, Василівка, Покровське, і зараз добувають тут сіль. Після розвалу Радянського Союзу безробіття прийшло й сюди: місцеве населення за безцінь продавало рідні оселі, шукаючи заробітки в інших регіонах України.

Та ситуація потроху змінюється. Цьо­му сприяло і створення Національного природного парку Білобережжя Святослава. Адміністрація парку вже прийняла на роботу 50 мешканців навколишніх сіл. Роботи вистачає. Проблем теж. Змінюється клімат, висихають на Кінбурні озера, а їх тут понад 300. Ціла країна озер. Щезнуть озера — і покине рідні місця багатий пташиний світ. Науковці парку планують провести канали від лиману до озер, що висихають. Але це треба робити продумано, щоб не порушити рівновагу кінбурнської унікальної природи. Та не лише місцевих учених, які турбуються про збереження природи, цікавить Кінбурн. Тут уже десятки років працюють археологічні експедиції.

Від Ахілла до нарконезалежності

Моє знайомство з природним парком Білобережжя Святослава продовжувалось. Всюдихід зупинився. Поруч тягнувся пляж зі сліпучо–білим чистісіньким піском, а за ним розкинулося море. Прозора блакитно–зелена вода. Лише крики чайок порушували тишу. Чайки чайками, але раптом почулося мукання корови. Я здивовано подивився вбік: кілька корів зайшли в море і спокійнісінько пили… морську воду. Щось подібне я бачив на Каспії: до найближчого житла було десятки кілометрів, і стадо верблюдів пило солону каспійську воду. Моє німе здивування помітив Юрій Іванович:

— Дивно? Звичайна картина. Мабуть, корівки звикли за сотні років. Господарі он з того села не хвилюються.

— Але яке ж тоді молоко?!

— У селі корівки п’ють звичайну прісну воду. На Кінбурні вона залягає неглибоко — близько семи метрів. А місцеве молоко я пив. Насолода! Тут такі трави, що й морська вода не псує смаку…

Кінбурн — не тільки багатий світ ендемічної живої природи. Прадавня і не така вже давня історія ховає тут свої таємницї ледь не на кожному кроці.

У другій половині ХVІІІ століття на Кінбурнській косі та на місці нинішнього Очакова точилися запеклі російсько–турецькі війни за вихід у море. Хто володів протокою, тому був відкритий шлях до Босфору і далі. На Кінбурні існувала турецька фортеця, яка за договором 1785 року відійшла до Російської імперії. Зараз на місці колишньої фортеці працюють археологи з Одеського національного університету, Миколаївського обласного товариства охорони пам’яток історії та культури, Інституту археології НАН України. Вчені за допомогою космічної зйомки визначили точне місцезнаходження турецької фортеці, її контури овальної форми. Вже знайдено дуже коштовну турецьку кераміку, відкрито залишки побутових приміщень. Про жорстокі бої часів російсько–турецьких війн свідчать кілька обгорілих завалів, перегорілі кістки тварин. Найцікавіші знахідки попереду.

Василь Чаус — заступник директора Національного парку, справжнiй спеціаліст і, до того ж, затятий історик–любитель. Не кожний професіонал, мабуть, так добре знає давню і нову історію цих країв. Він розповів чи не про найменші деталі російсько–турецьких війн. Тут був важко поранений Суворов під час штурму турками Кінбурнської коси, на землі Кінбурна загинув перший кошовий отаман чорноморського козацтва Сидір Білий. На його честь тут встановлено пам’ятний хрест. Під час російсько–турецького протистояння запорізькі козаки допомогли взяти військам імперії грізну фортецю Очаків. Козаки ж задунайські воювали на боці Туреччини. Такого було немало в українській історії. Сумно, але той хвіст тягнеться до нашого часу.

За давніми легендами у цих місцях мешкав знаменитий Ахілл — герой гомерівської «Іліади». Наприкінці ХІХ століття рибалки знайшли біля берегів Кінбурна жертовний камінь, присвячений Ахіллу. Зараз він зберігається в Херсонському археологічному музеї. Копію каменя дирекція парку встановила на косі. За переказами, Ахілл влаштовував на Тендрівській чи Кінбурнській косі спортивні змагання, на кшалт олімпійських. У давнину вони носили назву Ахіллів біг. Археологи шукають: іноді старі легенди обертаються на реальність. Знайшов же видатний німецький археолог Шліман Трою, йдучи слідами «Іліади». Місцеві мешканці, які пам’ятають ще часи Великої Вітчизняної війни, розповідали, що тут були німецькі археологи: вони нібито шукали щит Ахілла. На розкопках використовували наших військовополонених, які потім були розстріляні.

У день відкриття Олімпійських ігор у Лондоні дирекція парку спільно з миколаївськими спортсменами влаштували на Кінбурнській косі Ахіллів забіг. Долучилися всі, хто бажав: мешканці навколишніх сіл, відпочивальники, були навіть призери міжнародних змагань із Миколаєва. Брали участь в Ахілловому забігу і члени Центру реабілітації для наркозалежних громадської організації «Джерело».

Керівництво Національного природного парку Білобережжя Святослава надає Центру територію, забезпечує водою, дровами. Мешкають вони в наметовому таборі. Добра, благородна справа. У свою чергу, люди, які прагнуть повернутися до нормального життя, підтримують санітарний стан на Кінбурнській косі, прибирають територію парку. Адже місце серед туристів популярне. А забруднення природного середовища — ця ракова пухлина сучасної цивілізації — загрожує і древньому Кінбурну.

Чисті води тисячоліть

Я вже згадував про села Кінбурна, історія яких тягнеться ще з козацької доби. У радянські часи тут діяли бази відпочинку великих миколаївських підприємств. Тепер більша частина практично зруйнована, щось приватизовано.

Серед досить скромних сільських будинків, серед унікальної природи Кінбурнської коси неприємно виділяються дво–, три–, а то й чотириповерхові особняки. Такі ми бачимо навколо Києва, інших українських міст. Вони розташовані у мальовничих місцях біля води. Часто звичайній людині туди ходу немає. На Кінбурні поки що дорога до його прекрасних пляжів відкрита, дай Бог надовго.

— Помпезні будинки, мабуть, «нових» українців несуть загрозу кінбурнській природі? — запитав я Юрія Івановича. — Адже тут чистісінька, цілюща вода.

— Це біль мого серця. Проблема в тому, що населені пункти не ввійшли в межі Національного парку. І адміністрація парку не може впливати на хаотичну забудову. Нові «будівничі» мають офіційні проекти, є рішення сільської ради. А те, що стічні води можуть потрапити у води споконвічно чисті, мало кого хвилює. З часом забруднена вода може потрапити у морську воду, підтягнутися до первозданних пляжів.

— Дивіться, дика морква, — Юрій Іванович показує на якусь стеблину. — Росте тільки у нас, занесена в Червону книгу України. Дуже корисна для нирок. У Покровці зустрічаються і сліпак піщаний, і невеликий гризун кандибка пустельна. Теж ендемічні види, занесені до Червоної книги. І по цій ніжній природі їдуть важкі машини, везуть важкий будівельний матеріал…

Закінчилося моє побачення з такою чарівною Кінбурнською косою, з добрими людьми, що тут живуть, працюють. Швидко побіг катер до Очакова через Дніпровський лиман. Його «супроводжували» дельфіни: їх біля берегів Кінбурна ще зустрінеш. Афалін, білобочок, азовок. А в прісних плавнях мешкає рідкісний вид видри. Усі ці види охороняють. Але й нам потрібно їх любити, берегти.

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